Calvin Klein’s black list sends cold through American business in China

Beijing imposed vengeful US imports of oil, gas and agriculture equipment this month, but it was his threat to the sales of Calvin Klein’s underwear who sent the most cooling through the US business community in China.

Adding PVH clothing manufacturer and California Illumin Biotechnical Group in a “list of unsafe units” marks the first time China has listed US businesses of considerable interest in national security.

The black list allows Chinese officials to impose a wide range of sanctions and explains that multinational American – including some household brands – are closer than ever in the first line of the creation trade conflict between the two largest economies in the world.

“Other companies are asking us to help them understand it,” said Michael Hart, president of the American Chamber of Commerce in China. “They are trying to appreciate both” are we likely to target “and” if we were going out of China, what immediate impact and the effects of knocking would have “. Of course put a cold in the business environment.”

China listed in Illumina and PVH, which also owns the Tommy Hilfiger brand, after US President Donald Trump imposed an additional 10 percent fee for Chinese imports. Beijing responded with target vengeful fees and announced an antitrust investigation on Google.

Beijing accused PVH and Illumina of taking “discriminatory measures” against Chinese companies, but did not provide details of the sanctions it can impose, leaving the fate of US groups in the country.

US companies in China, like their Chinese counterparts in America, were already trying to navigate increasing tensions between Beijing and Washington.

Even before Trump’s return to the Presidency, a study by Amcham China found a 30 percent record of member companies were thinking about moving some operations from China or already doing so.

The first ranking of companies of large Beijing companies with large domestic operations increases possible corporate exposure.

China presented “its list of unreliable units” in 2020 and listed in the black standings of a number of US defense contractors and army -related companies. Skydio, the largest drone manufacturer in the US, suffered a supply chain crisis last year after being interrupted by Chinese suppliers.

The list reflects Washington’s “entity list”, which aims at companies accused of human rights abuse or are considered threats of national security, among other issues. Has used to block access to US technology and other Western countries for hundreds of Chinese companies.

Beijing has accused Calvin Klein PVH owner of taking ‘discriminatory measures’ against Chinese companies but did not provide details of sanctions that may impose © Hershe/Alamy

Leaders in PVH and Illumin are awaiting information on blacklist implications, which may result in fines and trading prohibitions inside and outside China, investing in the country or allowing staff to visit or remain.

“To be honest, we are a little worried about our jobs,” said a Tommy Hilfiger sales clerk in Beijing, one of 1,000 PVH staff in China. “We do not [yet] I know more. “

China’s Ministry of Trade on Thursday refused to specify which sanctions could be decided. “Foreign entities acting with integrity and matching the law have nothing to worry about,” said Ministry spokesman and Yongqian.

When the Ministry of Trade threatened to list Black PVH in September, she accused the company of “unreasonable boycott” from the western region of China of Xinjiang.

The US has banned imports from Xinjiang, where the Senior UN Commissioner for Human Rights and Independent Monitors have reported extensive human rights abuses against the mainly ethnic Muslim group. Beijing strongly denies the charges.

PVH said she was “surprised and deeply disappointed” from the black list and that she had respected all the relevant laws. “We will continue our engagement with the relevant authorities and we look forward to a positive solution,” the company said.

In 2023, China made up about 6 percent of PVH revenue and 16 percent of interest and tax revenue.

A long, modern office building with a network -like facade is partially obscured by leafless trees. Red flags are visible in front of the building.
Illumina construction offices in Beijing. The Ministry of Trade did not provide details of the ‘discriminatory measures’ that accused the biotechnical company to receive © Glenda Kwek/AFP through Getty Images

Illumina, a San Diego -based biotechnical company of $ 16 billion, previously had legal disputes with a Chinese competitor in the US last week, its chief executive Jacob Thaysen said the company hoped to resolve the black list issue and that it was “in dialogue with the respective parties”. China contributed 7 percent of sales, equalizing about $ 300 million a year, he said.

The Ministry of Trade did not provide details of the “discriminatory measures” that Illumina accused of taking.

The US company, whose shares have fallen 23 percent since the blacklist, makes the main cars of pharmaceutical industry gene sequences. Equipment is used by many Chinese drug developers, and the black list can threaten those partnerships.

An employee of a great Chinese manufacturer with Chinese contract said their supplier was to collect sequence sets. Transfer to another manufacturer “would be time, in high time and costly,” the person added.

Local Illuminian competitors have withdrawn to take advantage of uncertainty. MGI, which faces its market threats to the US on national security basis, and Genemind, the highest manufacturers of China sequences, are offering free or discount equipment to Illuminna customers.

Zhou Zhiliang, Genemind’s operating chief, said many Illumina clients were concerned and approached his company. “This is a golden opportunity for manufacturers of household sequences machinery,” he said.

Analysts said that despite geopolitical tensions, Beijing may want to limit the economic impact of his revenge against the USA

Regarding the Movement against PVH, a person involved in the fashion industry said China had a story of “aiming at companies to make an example of them”, adding that it rarely aimed at “leader of a category to avoid possible consequences of unemployment. “

For us and European companies that have often complained about lack of access and competitive disadvantages in the Chinese continent market, the black list has highlighted the uncertainty of their presence there.

“Publicly China is saying they want more foreign investment, but movements like this have the opposite effect,” Hart said.

Additional reporting by Nian Liu and Wenjie Ding in Beijing and Xueqiao Wang in Shanghai

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